Technically, this is not a medieval or renaissance recipe, but I haven’t found a pre-1600 strawberry preserves recipe yet (though I did find a strawberry pie recipe in the 1656 Book of Fruits and Flowers). The closest I have found is “To make conserve of cheries, and other fruites” in The Second Part of the Good Hus-wives Jewell by Thomas Dawson, first published in 1597:
Take halfe a pound of Cherries, & boile them dry in their own licour, and then straine them through a Hearne rale, and when you have strained them, put in two pounde of fine beaten Suger, and boyle them together a prety while, and then put your Conserve in a pot.
The recipe I used is from “Fine Preserving” by Catherine Plagemann (1967):
Hull and wash 2 quarts of perfect, not overripe strawberries (about 4 cups). Add 89 cups of granulated sugar and 4 tablespoons of lemon juice. Mix all gently so as not to cut or crush the fruit – hands are b est for this. Allow the fruit and sugar to stand in a nonmetallic bowl for 3 hours or so to draw out the juice. Then put the mixture into a large kettle. Cook at a rolling boil for 15 minutes and skim off the scum that will form.
Pour the boiled preserves into a nonmetallic bowl and cover it. Let it stay there until the next day. Stir it gently from time to time, to plump up the berries and counteract their tendency to float to the top.
After it is as this as you like it, put it into jars and seal with 2 thin coats of paraffin and a lid. You will have about 8 8-ounce glasses of preserves.
Because I foolishly started the preserves at night, and then had a commitment most of today, they ended up sitting longer than I would have liked, and thickened up a bit too much for my taste. I ended up with only 6 1/2 cups of preserves. However, I did get a lovely colour and flavour.
I note that the proportions of fruit and sugar are similar to those in Dawson’s cherry conserve recipe and the basic method is similar (aside from the boiling out to release juices, rather than getting the sugar to absorb it). It is also very similar to Dawson’s conserve of violets, which I made earlier this spring. It called for pounding the petals with a little sugar, then bringing an equal weight of sugar to a boil and adding the petals, then cool before putting it into pots.
At the time I made the violet conserve, I wasn’t happy with the results (the jar is on the left in the photo above). Having done the strawberries, I now realize I needed to boil the sugar more, so that it turned truly liquid, before adding the violets. Now I know what to do for next year.
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