This is not quite my mother’s tube steak, Newfoundland steak, the stuff that graced my elementary school lunch box.
Closely related to mortadella, (and the best mortadella is said to come from the city of Bologna), this particular sausage seems to have started its documented life known as cirvelato. Later, its name changed to Re del carni (king of meats). Outside of Italy, the name Bologna was used.
From our earliest source, Martino, we have this recipe (p 56):
How to Prepare King of Meats with Pork or Young Veal
Take some lean meat trimmed of all its sinew, in other words, from the haunch, and some good pork fat or veal fat. Then take some good aged cheese and a bit of fatty cheese and some good spices and two or three eggs and take the necessary amount of salt; and carefully mix all these things together and make them yellow with some saffron; and take some large pork intestines and clean well, making sure that they are thin and that no fat has remained; and fill with the mixture and press it into the intestines, making the sausages as long or as short as you like, and they should be boiled within two days because after that they will no longer be as good. Nonetheless, they can be conserved for fifteen or twenty days, or longer, if properly handled.
This recipe used cervellata in the original, the name for a type of blood sausage still made in southern Italy. By the end of the seventeenth century, this dish had become known as the “King of Meats” (Re delle Carni).
Platina’s version, p 90, is very similar:
Sausages
Veal meat and soft pork fat are well ground and grated aged rich cheese and well ground spices. Beat together two or three eggs, as much salt as is required, and saffron for color; all this you will mix together and after it is blended, stuff it into an intestine that has been well washed and stretched thin. These should be cooked in a cauldron. They are only good for two days. But they can be kept for fifteen days or more if you add more salt and spices or dry them out in smoke.
Neapolitan Recipe Collection (p 189) uses the name cirvelato:
Cirvelato of Pork or Veal
Get meat from the haunch of these animals along with their fat and cut it up small, so it can be well beaten with the knife; then get good Parmesan cheese and new fat cheese, good spices and three or two fresh eggs depending on the amount of the meat, and mix all this together with a little saffron; then get large intestines as are normally used, clean them thoroughly so that no fat is left, stuff them with this mixture and pack it tightly into the intestines, making [the sausages] as long or as short as you like; cook them by boiling; they will not be finished [i.e. ready for eating] for two days.
The Neapolitan Recipe Collection also has a recipe called Bologne, at p 190, though the addition of fennel, and the smoking instruction, makes it sound more like a Lucanian sausage. This may be one of the earliest indications of Lucanian sausage moving from the South of Italy, where it originated, to Northern Italy, which is now seen as its traditional home:
To make good Bolognese Sausage
Get twenty-five pounds of pork or veal from the haunch, without gristle or fat, and beat it as much as you can; for these twenty-five pounds of meat add fifteen ounces of salt and one and a half ounces of ground and whole pepper; then get large intestines, clean and wash them well and fill them as tightly as you can with the meat and make them a hand’s length long after the Bolognese custom; then set them to dry in smoke.
This is how a prince has them made. In truth they would be even better with two ounces more salt and half an ounce more pepper, too. And see that in these seventeen ounces of salt there is at least two ounces of the white sort, unground. Furthermore, you can make fat ones by taking half lean [meat] and half fat, and adding in a good lot of fennel, but those ones are not for keeping.
The Ouverture du Cuisine, published in 1604 by Lancelot de Castieau, cook to three princes of Liège, has a recipe for Bologna sausage ( http://www.medievalcookery.com/notes/ouverture.html):
To make Bologna sausage.
Take six pounds of slightly fatty pork, & cut into slices, & put in a cloth, put it in a press to squeeze out the blood, & let sit one hour in the press until the blood is all out, then chop it coarsely, not too small, put therein four ounces of salt, an ounce of pepper, grind coarsely, one ounce of cinnamon well powdered with a fine sieve, & mix all together with the salt, & put into the meat, & take eight ounces of Spanish wine, & mix it well by hand for a half hour, when all will be incorporated into the meat, then take beef intestines that are thicker than you want the sausage, then fill with the meat as hard as possible, & have a thick eplingue at hand for always piercing the intestine, at the end that doesn’t have any hole therein, & that the meat will be well compacted, then tie the intestine well closed thereon & thereon of the length that you want to have the sausage, then have a cauldron of boiling water on the fire, & put to boil the sausages in three or four boilings, & cut them apart, then hang them at the chimney five or six days until they are well dried.
Lancelot gives two other recipes of interest related to Balogna. The first is a Ceruelade (much more like the bologna recipes of Martino, Platina and the Neapolitan Recipe book than the one he calls Balogna sausage):
To make fine Ceruelade.
Take six pounds of meat like above, but it shouldn’t be too fatty, then take a half ounce of pepper, & half ounce of cinnamon, & half ounce of nutmeg, a little saffron, moistened with a bit of Spanish wine that with the others, then make sausages like the others.
The second is a version made with fish:
Bologna Sausage of fish.
Take three pounds of fresh salmon, two pounds of carp meat, a pound of smoked salmon, & chop well all together, then take one ounce of coarsely ground pepper, a half ounce of powdered cinnamon, three ounces of salt, half a sopine of Spanish wine, & three yolks of eggs, & make sausage like the others.
Finally, today’s picture is of the medieval centre of Bologna, a UNESCO World Heritage site today.
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